Description
The handoff from founding chef Tom Colicchio to Michael Anthony (Blue Hill at Stone Barns) carries the rarity of a papal succession, yet the farmhouse-style setting, with its decorative brambles, pinecones and intoxicating smell from the wood-burning oven, is still here. Colicchio and his hearty, meat-heavy fare are not, however, and it’s delicate constructions of vegetables and fish that dominate now. This shift is apparent as soon as the first course (of the main dining room’s mandated $76 three-course prix fixe) is rolled out: The broccoli soup is a light broth poured over dried shiitakes, airy sweetbreads and a runny quail egg. Each element appears to have been prepared with care, but the interplay among them does not always elevate the dish.